Building a Family Bike & Skate Ramp

Building a Family Bike & Skate Ramp


Today I’m building another kicker ramp,
but thought it would be a fun challenge to design it specifically for families. It needs to be good for little shredders while
also fun enough for big shredders. We built another ramp kind of like this, but
it was super heavy. It also had a blunt edge on the back side,
which was rollable but not ideal for beginners. I did like how capable and fun that ramp was,
and don’t want to sacrifice that in making this one good for families. This ramp needs to be lighter, and easier
to move around. The transition should also continue along
the top of the ramp, all the way to the back. While fun is a priority, safety is as well. I’m using relatively thin plywood, not only
to save weight but for flexibility. More on that later. For the beams we’ll use 2×3’s, also to
save weight. Once everything is assembled it should still
be pretty stout. These other supplies are for safety and portability. In the end, our total barely breaks $50. First, we’ll draw out the sides on the plywood. The ramp will be 6 feet long and 1 foot high,
with the first 4 feet taking up the launch transition. The rest will be a slope on a backside for
stability, fun, and safety. By tracing the sides like so, we’ll have
enough leftover wood for the surface. I’m cutting these sides out with my cordless
jigsaw, which is now one of my favorite tools. In theory this is the only saw you need to
build this ramp since you could cut the beams with it. I’m using a miter saw though, and cutting
them 27” each. I’m using normal drywall screws to secure
the beams. If this ramp were being stored outdoors, I’d
use deck screws. Now that the ramp is framed out, we’re ready
to attach the surface. This part is kind of tricky. Normally it’s pretty easy to bend plywood
on to a ramp surface, as it’s thin and flexible. The problem comes in here at the top—that’s
a pretty mean curve. I’ve known about this trick for years, but
have never actually tried it. By keeping the surface wet and letting it
bend slowly, I was able to conform it to the ramp’s shape in under an hour. Soaking it beforehand might have been a better
plan. After sanding the edges, I set out to make
the ramp safe and portable. Safe is a term I use loosely while building
ramps, but it would be nice to make the bottom smooth for skateboard and scooter wheels. For that I’m using a strip of steel sheet
metal from the hardware store. I’ll need to switch to a different blade
to cut this. Finishing washers will ensure that no sharp
screw heads protrude from the sheet metal. For added visibility, I’m applying this
reflective tape to the front and back of the ramp. I think it does more for style points than
for actual safety. It’s an old trick to put casters on the
side or back of a ramp, so it can be tilted and transported. I wanted something more stealth and fun to
use. With a shoelace, some eye hooks, and a handle,
you can flip the wheels down and tilt the ramp to roll it around. To put it back down, just lift it up and let
the wheels fall away. Our ramp is finished, and the surface is nice
and dry. Before I demonstrate how fun this ramp is,
I want to show you my new bike sent courtesy of Box Components. This is a cutting edge BMX Race bike. Unlike the bikes you’ve seen me ride in
other videos, this is designed for going fast. It has lightweight parts, a super long chainstay,
and many technologies that Box pioneered for racing. Later this fall we’ll be seeing more of
this bike, but first I need to get used to how it feels. What better way to do that then to test out
my new ramp? With a slope on both sides you can jump it,
pump it, or roll it. The metal piece plays nice with skateboard
or even—scooter wheels. If I test it with anything else I’ll let
you know. As is the case with all the things we build
here, I hope you can do a better job than I did. I left all the materials and measurements
in the description, but encourage you to improvise to meet the needs of your family. If you have the space, making it 8 feel long
would give you a mellower transition on the back. Using masonite on the top may also prevent
splinters. If you have any tips or other ideas, put them
down below and share them with the family. Make sure to tag me so I can see your ramps
on Instagram. Also be sure to watch my other ramp videos
in the playlist at the end, and of course, subscribe for more videos like these. As always, thanks for riding with me today,
and I’ll see you next time.

100 thoughts on “Building a Family Bike & Skate Ramp

  1. i race bmx i have a lawman pro with carbon bars and carbon forks i have box cranks speed line hubs and rims and recently won Washington state campionin in my 12 intermediateclass

  2. SETH you are the man. i love this video and all of your videos, i have watched your videos like 2 times each, i want to make a plywood jump like this but don't have the right wood i made some snow jumps and other wood jumps today on my YouTube channel i would love if u or anyone checked it out and gave me feed back.

  3. For reference: drywall screws are super hard and brittle. If things loosen up at all don't be surprised if you start shearing a bunch of them off. I would recommend deck screws all the way.
    Sweet wheel system!

  4. Try bending a steel plate on the part of the wheels that hit the ground when you fold them up to prevent the wood from getting ground down over time

  5. lol if I was gonna build one fir my family it would have to be very strong cos the other day my dad started doing my bmx ramp on his moped 😭

  6. Great video. I love your product. One suggestion: countersinking the screw heads might be kinder to skate boarders you would have to buy a metal counter sinking bit. However, if you are just using the ramp for bikes I would not bother with counter sinking.

  7. If you use a heat gun on the bend it will bend really nicely. I use it to bend my home made bows to add recurve.

  8. Seth you should actually become a full time tradie after utube ur so good at carpentry and building!

  9. Those finishing washers are really dangerous for skateboard s and scooters. The wheels can get caught really easily which is not ideal when going up a ramp.

  10. Ok, I HAVE to build one this weekend! My youngest son finally decided to learn to ride this week, and he is absolutely mad to ride at every opportunity. My boys have my natural MTB skills and need more challenge around the house, as the cycle part and dirt trails are 3 miles away, through a couple of busy streets. I may need to periodically "test" the ramp, too. Maybe two ramps will be better.

  11. I built a ramp using 12inch 2×4 in a u shape and 1/2 inch plywood just a straight ramp but very functional for bottom support I put 2×2 beams and it’s sturdy and very fun

  12. Wiggle out to my face in a minute or a second I don’t have to do a good day at the end I just want you back and I’m just

  13. Thanks so much Seth – built this ramp for my 4 year old and he loves it! followed your instructions, just changed all the measurements to metric. (we are in France). Love your vids too.

  14. Can you please make a table top for bikes, like the ones you see at bike parks? Im trying to build one but i havent found any advice.
    Can you guys like so he can see please

  15. Building tip: sheetrock screws are a poor choice for structural use. They have very poor sheer strength and the'll likely start snapping if this ramp starts getting used hard. A construction screw would be a better choice. Or even framing nails, but screwing structures together is much more fun than hammering them.

  16. I did this but I used 1/4” plywood and 2×4’s – just turned the 2x4s to cover more surface area on the plywood. It was super easy to bend the plywood since it was thin and the 2x4s cover enough area that the space between them isn’t large enough for the plywood to compromise strength. I’ve even sent my E bike into hauling balls! Total cost was $25 and it’s not too heavy at all with the lighter plywood. We’ll see how long it lasts haha!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *