CLIMBING IN CUBA – A TROPICAL ADVENTURE

CLIMBING IN CUBA – A TROPICAL ADVENTURE


We arrived at the crag and it’s like two walls facing each other spaced from 2 to 3 meters Have you ever seen roots of palm trees in a climbing route ? Now you do! I just found the first pearl of the trip a long 7a following a tufa line up to the big tree There’s this section where your feets are appart on a 2 meters stalactite It was awesome, the rock is like brand new But I shit my pants because there are many wasps At a time there were 2 or 3 nests and when you’re are climbing and there’s wasps bumping at you it is not pleasant at all But it’s promising for the rest of the trip We are taking a little break a the “Finca Raul Reyes” it’s a farm located between the crags where we are climbing today We drank lemon juice and ate omelettes for lunch They are also selling cigars, many fruit juices, coffee and eveything is produce on-site We discussed with Raul Reyes the owner of the fields where are located most of the crags. He explained to us that he contributed to the devlopment of rock climbing that was previously forbidden I think it’s great that someone who was born here and had nothing to gain had choosen to encourage this sport and to see a lot of foreigners coming at his home to climg pieces of rock, something they would not have imagined Climbing here started *14 years ago The first to come here to climb were Armando Menocal and Hanibal, de la Havana They were the first to come here, to my farm to practise rock climbing. We knew nothing about rock climbing. It was forbiden but it was tolerated. Then, after a few years we obtained an authorization It allowed climbing here in the field and at Costanera. Two spots, nothing else. Then, there have been the climbing competition at Costanera and climbers came for partying in the field. People came from all across the world I’m everyone’s “papa” We took some bikes today to take a ride between the mogotes I just put my quickdraws in a 7c located at the entrance to the tunnel in fact here, there a tunnel that allows to cross the mogote to join the fields on the other side The route is 15 meters high for about 17 meters of overhang It is really confusing because you have to climb in the 3 dimensions you have to use your shoulders, your knees one time feet first, one time feet last So it is really long to redpoint because you are completly lost For rest days, we advise you to take a ride to the beach of Cayo Levisa If you move away a little you feel like on a desert island Climbing in Vinales suits for all levels there are mainly 6 and 7 grades routes I found many route that suited me because there are many wonderfull 6 grades with different styles Some styles are similar to the one we have in France with crimps on very scuplted orange walls, very abrasive I also climbed a few routes on tufas That’s so great! it is quite rare to find routes of this style in the 6 grade usually it is rather harder routes And here I climbed a wonderfull 6a+ on stalactites I will try to show you a very funny bird or at least let you ear it we decided to to call it “the Dubstep-Bird” you’ll find out why

8 thoughts on “CLIMBING IN CUBA – A TROPICAL ADVENTURE

  1. Great video! The "dubstep-bird" is a Cuban Sinsonte (Northern Mockingbird), it sings a wild varieties of styles because it spends all the time mimicking other bird's songs 🙂

  2. That 7c is sick man! Tiburones Viñaleros… haha I belay a friend there, and a shit on my pants just belaying him…

  3. Merci beaucoup pour la vidéo! Il faut savoir que tous les locaux grimpeurs dépendent seulement des donations, du coup pensez à emmener des bolts, cordes, magnésie. Perso j'ai commencé à escalader à Viñales avec Raul c'est un super guide d'escalade et d'autres trucs, sa page facebook : https://www.facebook.com/XtremosCuba. Je vais continuer à Paris. Ah et aussi, évitez de rester chez Oscar, il vole des trucs aux escaladeurs (vous verrez ses fils conduire des scoot avec des casques d'escalade, ou encore une slackline en guise de fixeur à rideaux de sa terrrasse)

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